#Raptor SVT Raptor Megathread

I like to be resourceful, so I figured I would include maintenance items and other resources for other Raptor owners or those looking to join the club!

Note: I don't have a supercharged Raptor. Take that with a grain of salt. My application is more for the Naturally Aspirated folks. I've had the option to run a supercharger, but after looking at the cost of maintenance on the supercharger alone for the long run, I ran the other way.

!	Disclaimer: This is for reference only. I am not liable for anything. ANYTHING. Use this as only a reference to "make it a little easier." Proceed at your own risk. Highly recommend you take your vehicle to a good mechanic if you are not comfortable with this.

• Engine Oil viewtopic.php?p=16#p16
  5W-30 (Should mitigate Timing Tick) viewtopic.php?p=30#p30
• Differential Fluid viewtopic.php?p=20#p20
• Torque Values viewtopic.php?p=26#p26
• Transfer Case Fluid viewtopic.php?p=27#p27
• OEM Headlight Lens Replacement viewtopic.php?p=43#p43
• Prepurchase Checklist: viewtopic.php?p=55#p55
• Leadframe Recall
• Lug nuts
• Fuse 27
• Firestone Lifetime Alignment
• Texas Shock Works (TSW) Fox Shocks Exchange Program
• Four Seasons AC Compressor
• Coolant
• Transmission Fluid
• Rear Defrost Bypass
• Forscan
• Auxiliary Switches

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Engine Oil
Difficulty:

10%

Requirements

• 7qts of 5W-20 Motor Oil
• Oil Filter
• Oil Pan capable of holding at least 7qts
• Paper towels
• 16mm or ⅝" Socket / Wrench
• Adjustable Torque Wrench
• Filter Wrench

Procedure
1. Run the truck for about 15 minutes.
2. Shut off the truck.
3. Crawl underneath with a 16mm or ⅝" wrench.
4. Unscrew the drain plug with your drain pan underneath, and let it drip out (took about 10 minutes)
5. Pull the dipstick up to allow air vacuum to extract more of the old oil.
6. Screw the plug back in until it is snug and torque to 23NM or 17ft. lbs.
7. Locate the oil filter at the front of the truck. Many think it's easier to remove the skid plate or the access panel on the skid plate to reduce mess.
8. With the oil pan underneath, unscrew the oil filter. Oil will start dripping out as soon as you unscrew it almost completely off.
9. Make sure the rubber gasket comes off with the old filter.
10. Lube the new filter with the new or old oil (doesn't matter).
11. Screw it back on hand tight ONLY!
12. Locate the oil filler cap. Unscrew and add 7qts of 5w-20 oil.
13. Let the oil settle and check the dipstick for level.
14. Make sure you cap/screw everything and start the engine and let it run for 5 minutes watching your oil pressure gauge.
15. Check for leaks while the truck is running.
16. Reset Oil Life on your gauge cluster. Settings > Oil Life > Hold reset.

Oil Recommendations
I highly advise you to stick to "Full Synthetic" Oil for the SVT Raptor as that's what the 6.2L Boss V8 is designed to utilize.
Amsoil Signature Series Full Synthetic is a great oil to use, especially with the added detergent, but it costs a penny for sure. I used to use their oil every oil change, but have now only used them once a year to just "clean" whatever Mobil1 Full Synthetic misses.
Conclusion: can't go wrong with Amsoil or Mobil1.
Same goes to their filters. Highly advise staying away from anything Fram.



AMSOIL Oil Filter: EAO11 x1
https://www.amsoil.com/p/amsoil-oil-fil ... e=EAO11-EA
AMSOIL Signature Series 5W-20 100% Synthetic Motor Oil Gallon Jug x2
https://www.amsoil.com/p/amsoil-signatu ... e=ALM1G-EA







If your engine is louder on cold starts or if you're curious about running different viscosities for engine oil, check out: 5W-30 (Should mitigate Timing Tick) https://kbexit.vet/viewtopic.php?p=30#p30

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Differential Fluid
Difficulty:

30%

Rear Differential
Remove all the bolts EXCEPT for 2 bolts (loosen them for clearance), then pry the diff cover off and let it drain.

Thoroughly clean the differential before applying sealant. (Permatex Ultra Black)

Apply the silicone in a connected bead-like pattern and let it sit for 10 minutes to get tacky, then put the diff cover on and tighten the bolts, just tighten them loosely until you see the silicone start to squish out the side. Then wait another 5 minutes and tightened another round, you don’t want to crank down on the bolts the first time or you will squeeze out all the silicone and a terrible seal.

Torque to 45 NM / 33 ft. lbs.

Remove the fill plug and start pumping 5.5 pints of 75W140 Gear Oil.
Quick link to AMSOIL: https://www.amsoil.com/p/amsoil-severe- ... e=SVOPK-EA


Front Differential
Remove the Skid Plate to gain access to the Front Differential.

The Front Differential is located right next to the Steering Rack. The bolts can be removed and the cover will come right off. No stress.

Clean the differential thoroughly and apply the same sealant as earlier. (Permatex Ultra Black)

Application is exactly the same as the Rear Diff.

Torque to 32 NM / 24 ft. lbs.

Remove the fill plug and start pumping 3.6 pints of 75W 90.
Quick link to AMSOIL: https://www.amsoil.com/p/amsoil-severe- ... e=SVGPK-EA


Fluid Capacities
Differential, Rear: 5.5 pints
Differential, Front: 3.6 pints


Ford tells us that the Differential is lubed for life, and only needs changed if the axles have been submerged in water.
It doesn't hurt to go the extra mile and add this routine to your maintenance intervals. I did mine at the 100k and 200k Mile interval, +/- 10%.
Both times when mine were done, they had that milky gray color, clearly indicated water has been introduced in the mix. Mind you, I don't cross rivers. So I highly recommend this service.
Fluids are a lot more affordable than complete replacements of hardware. Trust me.

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Torque Values

I won’t take responsibility if you mess up the torque and something falls apart down the road. Always check the condition of fasteners before reusing them—if they’ve got remnants of Loctite, make sure to reapply. Many suspension bolts and nuts are designed to be replaced after each use, so if that worries you, replace them. Also, make sure your torque wrench is accurate and reliable.

• **Rear Suspension**
  • Shock absorber nuts: 90 NM (66 lb-ft) / N/A lb-in
  • Shock absorber shield bolts (Fox shock guard): 4 NM / 35 lb-in
  • Spring shackle-to-frame nut: 185 NM (136 lb-ft) / N/A lb-in
  • Spring-to-frame nut: 350 NM (258 lb-ft) / N/A lb-in
  • Spring-to-shackle nut: 185 NM (136 lb-ft) / N/A lb-in
  • Spring U-bolt nuts: Torque to yield
  • Jounce bumper-to-frame bolt: 35 NM (26 lb-ft) / N/A lb-in
• **Front Suspension**
  • Brake caliper anchor plate bolts: 250 NM (184 lb-ft) / N/A lb-in (Loctite)
  • Brake disc shield bolts: 17 NM / 150 lb-in
  • Brake hose bracket bolt: 30 NM (22 lb-ft) / N/A lb-in
  • Halfshaft nut: 27 NM (20 lb-ft) / N/A lb-in
  • Integrated Wheel End (IWE) bolts: 15 NM / 133 lb-in
  • Lower arm forward and rearward nuts: 350 NM (258 lb-ft) / N/A lb-in
  • Lower ball joint nut: 150 NM (111 lb-ft) / N/A lb-in
  • Shock absorber lower nut: 550 NM (406 lb-ft) / N/A lb-in
  • Shock absorber upper mount nuts: 40 NM (30 lb-ft) / N/A lb-in
  • Shock rod nut: 55 NM (41 lb-ft) / N/A lb-in
  • Skid plate bolts: 48 NM (35 lb-ft) / N/A lb-in
  • Stabilizer bar bracket nuts: 55 NM (41 lb-ft) / N/A lb-in
  • Stabilizer bar link nuts: 80 NM (59 lb-ft) / N/A lb-in
  • Tie-rod end nut: 115 NM (85 lb-ft) / N/A lb-in
  • Upper arm-to-frame nuts: 150 NM (111 lb-ft) / N/A lb-in
  • Upper ball joint nut: 115 NM (85 lb-ft) / N/A lb-in
  • Wheel bearing and wheel hub bolts: 175 NM (129 lb-ft) / N/A lb-in
  • Wheel speed sensor bolt: 18 NM / 159 lb-in
  • Wheel speed sensor harness bracket bolt: 12 NM / 106 lb-in
• **Rear Brakes**
  • Axle vent valve: 18 NM / 159 lb-in
  • Brake caliper bleeder screw: 20 NM / 177 lb-in
  • Brake caliper flow bolt: 40 NM (30 lb-ft) / N/A lb-in
  • Brake caliper guide pin bolt: 30 NM (22 lb-ft) / N/A lb-in
  • Brake caliper support bracket bolts: 165 NM (122 lb-ft) / N/A lb-in (Loctite)
  • Brake flexible hose bracket-to-axle bolt: 30 NM (22 lb-ft) / N/A lb-in
  • Brake flexible hose bracket-to-frame bolt: 17 NM / 150 lb-in
  • Brake noise damper: 14 NM / 124 lb-in
  • Brake tube fitting: 17 NM / 150 lb-in
• **Front Brakes**
  • Brake caliper anchor plate bolts: 250 NM (184 lb-ft) / N/A lb-in
  • Brake caliper flow bolt: 40 NM (30 lb-ft) / N/A lb-in
  • Brake caliper guide pin bolt: 37 NM (27 lb-ft) / N/A lb-in
  • Brake disc shield bolts: 18 NM / 159 lb-in
  • Brake flexible hose bracket-to-frame bolt: 17 NM / 150 lb-in
  • Brake flexible hose bracket-to-wheel knuckle bolt: 30 NM (22 lb-ft) / N/A lb-in
  • Brake tube fitting: 17 NM / 150 lb-in
• **Driveshafts**
  • Driveshaft flange bolts: 103 NM (76 lb-ft) / N/A lb-in (Loctite)
  • Front flange-to-pinion flange bolts: 55 NM (41 lb-ft) / N/A lb-in (Loctite)
• **Bumpers**
  • Frame mounting bracket-to-front bumper nuts: 115 NM (85 lb-ft) / N/A lb-in
  • Front bumper cover-to-fender bolts: 3 NM / 27 lb-in
  • Front bumper cover-to-radiator support bolts: 3 NM / 27 lb-in
  • Rear bumper nuts: 175 NM (129 lb-ft) / N/A lb-in
  • Rear harness ground bolt: 10 NM / 89 lb-in
  • Tow hook bolts: 115 NM (85 lb-ft) / N/A lb-in
• **Lug nuts**
  • Start by hand, tighten in star pattern to: 204 NM (150 lb-ft) / N/A lb-in
• **Bed bolts**
  • Bed box to frame: 80 NM (59 lb-ft) / N/A lb-in (Suggested to discard and replace bolts)
• **Spark plugs**
  • 5.4 and 6.2: 12 NM / 106 lb-in (5.4 *8 plugs, 6.2 *16 plugs)
• **Drain plugs**
  • Oil drain plug (5.4 and 6.2): 23 NM (17 lb-ft) / N/A lb-in
  • Front diff fill plug: 25 NM (18 lb-ft) / N/A lb-in
  • Rear diff fill plug: 30 NM (22 lb-ft) / N/A lb-in
• **Transfer case**
  • Drain plug: 15 NM / 133 lb-in
  • Fill plug: 15 NM / 133 lb-in
• **Differential cover**
  • Rear differential housing cover bolts: 45 NM (33 lb-ft) / N/A lb-in
  • Front differential housing cover bolts: 32 NM (24 lb-ft) / N/A lb-in
• **Fuel Tank**
  • Fuel pump module cover nuts: 9 NM / 80 lb-in
  • Fuel tank skid plate nuts: 20 NM / 177 lb-in
  • Fuel tank support strap bolts: 47 NM (35 lb-ft) / N/A lb-in
• **Power Steering System**
  • Inner tie rods: 120 NM (89 lb-ft) / N/A lb-in
  • Oil drip shield bolts: 7 NM / 62 lb-in
  • Outer tie-rod end nuts: 115 NM (85 lb-ft) / N/A lb-in
  • Power steering fluid reservoir stud bolt: 8 NM / 71 lb-in
  • Power steering pump bolts and stud bolt: 25 NM (18 lb-ft) / N/A lb-in
  • Pressure line bracket-to-crossmember bolt: 7 NM / 62 lb-in
  • Pressure line bracket-to-engine nut: 40 NM (30 lb-ft) / N/A lb-in
  • Pressure line-to-pump fitting: 75 NM (55 lb-ft) / N/A lb-in
  • Steering column shaft-to-steering gear bolt: 30 NM (22 lb-ft) / N/A lb-in

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Transfer Case Fluid
Difficulty:

10%

This is probably the most straightforward and simple fluid change you'll find on this platform.

Remove the skid plate under the Transfer Case.

Place a pan under the Transfer Case to capture all of the fluid. Make sure it's big enough for the application.

Remove the bottom drain plug and let it drain out. Open the top plug after waiting a little bit to aid with vacuum.

Replace the bottom drain plug, torque to spec. Then proceed to fill the top plug with ATF. You'll know you're done when the excess spills out the top.

Torque the top plug to spec.

Replace the Skid Plate and tighten the bolts.

You're done!


Torque Specs:
Drain plug: 15 NM / 133 lb-in
Fill plug: 15 NM / 133 lb-in

ATF: ATL1G-EA
AMSOIL Signature Series Fuel-Efficient 100% Synthetic Automatic Transmission Fluid
https://www.amsoil.com/p/amsoil-signatu ... e=ATL1G-EA

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5W-30 (Should mitigate Timing Tick)

Looking in the Forums and Raptor Groups on Facebook, oil weight is heavily debated, especially since 6.2L F-250s have supplement documentation from Ford to run heavier weight now.

The 6.2L in the SVT Raptor is the same as the 6.2L in the F-250 minus the camshaft and tune. With that in mind, this information is very relevant to our application.

But why would you consider running 5W-30 over the 5W-20?

Temperature rating between the both are the same, but where it shines is the viscosity. There are various claims that running the higher viscosity has helped quiet the old timing components, especially during cold startups. Now another debate is on the oil squirters and the pump having to push a little harder for the added weight, but I personally don't think it would be that much of a difference.

Now take this with a grain of salt...
I am looking into increasing the weight in my next oil change. Why? Because of the ticking during startup. The Raptor used to be quieter in the engine bay during cold startups, but as it has aged, you definitely notice newer sound. It's not something to be scared about unless you're getting knock, of course.

Gas mileage will take a little bit though. As mentioned before, the oil pump will be working a little harder, but since it's not a huge difference, the squirters and pump will be just fine, I think.

You can use the same instructions for the oil change as I have listed. Might back off a little bit on the quantity and just check the oil fill level and add as needed since the added viscosity will probably take more volume.
Engine Oil https://kbexit.vet/viewtopic.php?p=16#p16

As far as engine wear, I think the 5W-30 will coat everything better since 5W-20 is pretty much water.

Again, take this however way you want, but I am not responsible for what you do to your own vehicle.

AMSOIL Signature Series 5W-30 100% Synthetic Motor Oil
Product code : ASLQT-EA
https://www.amsoil.com/p/amsoil-signatu ... e=ASL1G-EA

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OEM Headlight Lens Replacement
Difficulty:

40%

So many people have told me that they don't sell lenses separately anywhere for the 2009-2014 F-150...


Well they are full of shit!
5 minutes on Amazon and I found these.
PIT66 Headlight Lens Cover, Compatible with 2009-2014 Ford F150 Clear https://a.co/d/73yro9M

You can easily replace these by:

• Preheat oven to 250 Degrees Fahrenheit
• Clean off all debris
• Unplug and remove harnesses and ballast
• Remove accessible screws (not adjustment screws)
• Place headlights in oven for 30 minutes
• Gently pry headlight lense away from assembly (plastic pry tool)
• Clean off excess Butyl
• Make modes now if you're wanting to make your own retrofit
• Install new layer of butyl and replacement lens
• Gently press together
• Place back in oven, periodically set lens gently (seriously, be gentle!)
• After 30 minutes, let it cool in open air

Difficulty is set in such a way for the fact that it's really easy to fuck up and either melt or crack your assembly. You can also improperly seal to expose the internals to moisture.

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Prepurchase Checklist

Is it the 5.4L?
I would avoid it. I do apologize to the seller, but in my experience and opinion, the price will have to be absolutely low to begin with, and I may consider it as an alternative Raptor. For the sake of keeping miles lower on my 6.2L or to beat the shit out of, would be my only consideration for this motor. If you're in a 5.4L Raptor, I would see if a 6.2L or 5.0 Swap would be feasible.

Check if Fuse 27 has been relocated.
Open the hood, open the fuse box right in top of the radiator. Look at the diagram and locate #27. If there is no fuse there, you can go ahead and confirm that it's been relocated. If it hasn't, it's fine, if you can read, you can relocate it yourself. Takes 30 minutes if you know what you're doing. It's just extremely convenient if it's already been done, as it's not a matter of "if it happens" but more of a "when it happens" type of deal.

*** More to be added.